Schroeder’s
Stop #11 on my tour of the oldest spots in California
In downtown San Francisco you will find not just another one of the oldest restaurants in the state, but also the oldest and largest German restaurant on the West Coast.
Henry and John Schroeder opened Schroeder’s in 1893. The brothers, who were Prussian immigrants, wanted to create a Bavaria-inspired beer hall in downtown San Francisco.
Note: Bavaria is a large state in southeast Germany. Munich— the capital of Bavaria— has long been known for its beer culture and beer halls. The Hofbräuhaus in Munich is one of the oldest and most famous beer halls in the world.
In 1906, Schroeder’s original Market Street building was completely destroyed by the earthquake and fires.
Henry Schroeder, who was actively involved in rebuilding downtown, made sure that his beer hall was rebuilt on Front Street. Today, that is still where you’ll find it.
Note: The restaurant moved between a couple different Front Street addresses in the early years before settling at 240 Front Street for the better part of the last century.
The space was renovated in 2014 when new owners Jan Wiginton and Andy Chun took over, but much of its core character remains. For example, murals painted by German artist Hermann Richter for Schroeder’s in the 1930s have stood the test of time and are still, in my opinion, the focal point of the interior. The original rosewood bar has also been preserved. Cases of beer steins from years past act as mini museum exhibits throughout the space.
And the coat hooks— there are so many of them! They line the walls and are reminiscent of a time when every customer likely peeled off and hung up their overcoat and derby hat upon arrival. Today, they hold backpacks carrying laptops and other modern workwear.
The best part was picking out my beer from their extensive list. I wanted to drink a German beer (obviously) and the bartender recommended the Weihenstephaner, so that’s what I ordered. From my bar stool, sipping my beer, I watched the bartenders fill stein after stein with draft beer for other customers.
Schroeder’s has a full menu of hearty German food alongside modern bar fare, including schnitzel, sausages, sandwiches, tater tots, wings, and more. I had my heart set on the “Giant Bavarian Pretzel,” and it did not disappoint. Besides being warm and chewy, it was larger than my head. Perfect.
There is one more thing that shouldn’t be missed at Schroeder’s: a sign near the entrance that reads, “Ladies & Gentlemen for Lunch & Dinner.”
Although unassuming, the sign becomes much more meaningful once you know this next piece of Schroeder’s history:
From the beginning, Schroeder’s was a men-only establishment. It wasn’t until 1935 when the restaurant, then owned by Max Kniesche, allowed women in at all. And even then, they were only allowed for dinner. No women were allowed through the door before 1:30 p.m. Lunch was still a gentleman’s club.
It stayed that way for another 35 years, until a woman named Carol Weintraub sued Schroeder’s in 1970. In interviews, she said the lawsuit had nothing to do with the broader fight for women’s rights— she simply wanted German food at lunch. After being denied twice during lunch hours, she sued for $500 in damages and demanded a change in the long-standing policy.
Apparently one man wrote into the San Francisco Chronicle after hearing about the lawsuit, calling it “another ax-blow to what remains of San Francisco’s character.”
Kniesche, who was still in charge, didn’t want to change the policy, but ultimately did once the case began drawing media attention. Later in life, however, he changed his tune and said the change was “the best thing that ever happened” to him.
So while that sign inviting ladies and gentlemen for lunch and dinner might not seem unusual today, with some added context, it stands out much more.
Schroeder’s annual Oktoberfest party has been a beloved downtown event for decades. It is an excuse to drink beer to your heart’s delight out of huge boot-shaped glasses, dance to live music, and indulge in giant pretzels.
And honestly, while Oktoberfest might be the most obvious excuse to return, I’ll probably be back much sooner for that pretzel.
Sources:
https://www.schroederssf.com/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer_hall
https://sf.eater.com/2014/5/6/6228931/schroeders-returns-to-the-fidi-with-a-major-makeover
https://www.askart.com/bio/Hermann_Richter/103773/Hermann_Richter
https://www.marinatimes.com/the-sauerkraut-kid-tries-out-the-new-schroeders
https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/sf-schroeders-130-year-celebration-17744094.php
https://www.7x7.com/schroeders-sfs-oldest-german-beer-hall-reopens-this-week-1786781068.html