Valley Ford Hotel
Stop #9 on my tour of the oldest spots in California
I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a place quite like Valley Ford.
It is one of those places that evokes the expression “don’t blink, or you’ll miss it.”
And it’s true. But there is real substance here if you stop to take it in.
The unincorporated community of Valley Ford straddles Highway 1, north of Point Reyes, Marshall, and Tomales, and about 10 minutes before you reach Bodega Bay. It is considered part of west Sonoma County, as it lies just barely north of Marin County’s boundary line.
This stretch of Highway 1, like many of its stretches, is truly breathtaking. There are rolling green hills as far as the eye can see, winding creeks, wide blue skies, and lots and lots of cows— interrupted only by the occasional flock of sheep or herd of horses.
Valley Ford does not feel big, and it’s not, with a population of around 150. However, when you come across it, it feels notable, like you’ve arrived somewhere.
Its establishments line the highway and include a post office, market, creamery, cafe, Italian restaurant, and the historic Valley Ford Hotel.
The Valley Ford Hotel has been around since 1864, when the Rein family built it as a stop for travelers passing through in stagecoaches. At the time, Valley Ford was known for its mill and was beginning to gain popularity as a hub for local farmers.
However, the hotel became even more important when the North Pacific Coast Railroad, built in 1874, included Valley Ford as a stop on its line.
The railroad picked passengers up from the ferry dock in Sausalito and traveled northwest, stopping in places like San Rafael, Fairfax, Point Reyes, Marshall, Tamales, and Valley Ford, eventually reaching Cazadero, north of the Russian River.
This was what really put Valley Ford on the map and encouraged more development here.
The North Pacific Coast Railroad hauled passengers, goods, and supplies along this route for about 50 years until it was dismantled in 1929.
After that, Valley Ford continued on as a small, rural community, and for some time it was bustling with bars and restaurants.
In the early 1900s, a one-room schoolhouse was built. It still stands today, but hasn’t been used as a school since the 1960s. Now, it serves as an event venue that hosts pop-up markets, sourdough-making classes, and even weddings.
The old bank building, built in 1893, still exists as well. It was once home to the Dairyman’s Bank of Valley Ford, which was rumored to be the most robbed bank in the state. There were many wealthy cattle ranchers that banked here, and no real law enforcement to protect it. The bank eventually merged with the Bank of Tomales and was later absorbed by the Bank of America. Today, the old building still contains the bank vaults, reminiscent of its original purpose, and until recently housed the Northern Light Surf Shop. The surf shop just closed in February, so we’ll have to see who fills the space next
Shona Campbell and Brandon Guenther have run the historic Valley Ford Hotel for the last 20 years. Before them, it changed hands many times and the characters that ran the joint always decided the direction of the restaurant space downstairs. However, the bones of the Valley Ford Hotel have remained through all of its transitions.
In the ‘90s, the hotel was in need of serious renovations. And amazingly, a lot of the hotel’s original materials were incorporated into the restored version of the building. Today, you can still find some of the original flooring when you first walk in, and wood for the hotel’s original water tank built into the bar.
If you’re thinking this would be the perfect place for ghost hunting, you aren’t wrong, although you might be a couple years too late.
Shona told me that when they first took over the building, many guests reported seeing a ghost that resembled a young child. It turns out that the Rein family — the original owners— had lost one of their nine children when a son disappeared and was never found. It is believed he drowned in the estuary behind the property.
Shona and Brandon had someone come in to cleanse the property of its spirits years ago. And since then, the hotel has been much quieter. Although, they say that on occasion the salon doors will open and close on their own.
The rooms in the hotel are simple and cozy on the upstairs level of the building. There is a small coffee and tea station in the hallway for all guests to enjoy.
On the main level of the building is Rocker’s Roadhouse— Shona and Brandon’s creation. With a bar in the front and a dining room in the back, the roadhouse offers a full menu of fresh, Sonoma Coast-inspired food with a Southern flair.
The bar serves wine and beer and you can order your favorite cocktail, although they don’t have a full liquor license (which may be a good thing if you’re not planning to stay the night at the hotel). They substitute hard alcohol with soju, and the Old Fashioned I tried with this recipe was good!
Down the road, in Bodega Bay, along the water, Shona and Brandon opened a sister restaurant in 2024, called Rocker Oysterfellers. This spot has a full bar and an even larger dining area, almost completely surrounded by windows overlooking the bay.
This is where I sat for sunset, enjoying cocktails and the buzz of this place, which was busy even on a Wednesday evening.
It was very peaceful waking up at the Valley Ford Hotel. I immediately thought of the green hills and the cows, right outside my window. From the hotel’s front porch, you can essentially take in the whole town.
For breakfast, I simply walked across Highway 1 to the Valley Ford Creamery. Here they serve coffee and pastries in the morning, and I was sad to miss the kitchen opening for lunch. It is on my list to go back and try a cheese tasting, as well as their soft serve made from their own cows.
I also left still wanting to try Valley Ford’s Italian restaurant, Dinucci’s. In the early 1900s, the restaurant’s building was known as the Depot Hotel and served travelers, much like the Valley Ford Hotel. In 1939, it was bought by the Dinucci family, who changed the name, renovated the dining room, and began serving hearty, family-style Italian dinners.
In the 1960s, the Wagner family took over the restaurant, and Dinucci’s has remained in their family ever since. Today it is known as “one of Sonoma County’s historic and longest-run family restaurants.”
I was lucky enough to see Valley Ford right on the cusp of spring, when the colors were vibrant, the air was crisp, and the landscape felt full of life and renewal. Shona told me that it feels like the town is on the rise, and people are coming together now more than ever to create something special in Valley Ford. I’m already excited to come back and experience even more of this hidden gem along Highway 1.
Sources:
Special thanks to Shona and Brandon for their hospitality and insight!
https://www.sfgate.com/local/article/valley-ford-bay-area-town-unexpected-destination-21199115.php
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valley_Ford,_California
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_Pacific_Coast_Railroad
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1438229229939031/posts/1899291483832801/
https://www.dinuccisrestaurantandbar.com/about-5
https://www.pressdemocrat.com/2025/01/04/new-year-adventures-in-valley-ford-and-bloomfield/
Looks amazing!!